Last updated on 9 January 2004


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Bluenose Class Tuning Sheet

Reproduced below is a tuning sheet from Sable Sailmakers of Lunenburg, now a North Sails loft. It was written by the designers of the official sail pattern for the class and pertains specifically to sails made from that pattern, but offers many guidelines and suggestions that will be applicable to any Bluenose. It describes only the older low-aspect genoa and not the newer blade jib that is now the officially prescribed foresail. I don't know if an updated sheet exists or, if it does, whether I would be allowed to include it here. I hope that you find at least some value in this version.


Introduction

As in any One-Design Class the differences from boat to boat are controlled and limited which increases the importance of basic rig tuning and set-up.

This sheet is designed to be used when you first launch your boat. At that time set your boat up according to this.


General setup

Mast butt position
This is critical because it determines helm, heel, acceleration. From the aft face of the mast where it rests in the step to the front face of the rudder shaft where it penetrates the hull is 9 ft. 0.75 inches.
Rake
The rake is fixed by the headstay length which should be 21 ft. 7.75 inches from the foredeck where the headstay is attached, to the front face of the mast where the headstay is attached.
Jumper tension
The tension on the jumper wires with mast at rest (without bend) determines the mainsail fullness. Therefore more jumper tension equals more main fullness. Less jumper tension produces a relatively flatter sail. The jumpers should have sufficient tension to keep the mast straight (Fore and Aft) in ten knots of wind with the mainsail sheeted correctly.
Mast bend
The mainsail is designed for a straight mast (fore and aft) until overpowered. Therefore you do not need backstay tension until you are overpowered. Pull the backstay control only enough to eliminate excessive helm and heel.
Mast blocking
This prevents unnecessary mast breakage and risk of damage. The mast should be firmly blocked to prevent lateral motion. The blocks which prevent fore and aft motion should be 0.5 inches or 0.25 inches thick. The blocks are installed (by force usually) such that no fore and aft bend exists throughout the length of the mast in winds up to ten knots.
The genoa
  1. Should be tacked as close as possible to the deck.
  2. Should have a minimum stretch adjustable Halyard.
  3. Should have the turning point of the sheet 11 ft. 4.5 inches aft of its tack position.
  4. Should have two tracks to adjust for various wind speeds. The inboard track should be 2 ft. 7 inches off the centre line. The outboard track should be 2 ft. 11 inches off the centre line.

Genoa adjustments

Wind Speed Halyard Tension Track in/out
0 - 4 small horizontal wrinkles out
4 - 10 small horizontal wrinkles in
11 - 15 no horizontal wrinkles in
16 - 20 no horizontal wrinkles in
21 - 26 no horizontal wrinkles
plus 2 inches tension
out

Mainsail adjustments

Wind Speed Battens Cunningham Outhaul Vang Backstay Traveller
0 - 4 light 0 0 0 0 ½ down
5 - 10 light 0 0 0 0 centre
11 - 15 medium 2 inches ½ 0 2 inches varies*
16 - 20 stiff no wrinkles ¾ 0 as in picture varies*
21 - 26 stiff maximum maximum 0 maximum varies*

* For adjustments of the traveller in wind speeds of over 10 knots the wave pattern is an important factor. If it is flat water or choppy the boat will move best with the traveller gradually eased out as the wind speed builds. In large waves and swells it is better to leave the traveller centred and use the mainsheet to adjust twist in the main to keep the boat fairly level and moving.


Boat attitude

Wind Speed Beating Reaching Running
0 - 4 10° - 12° level level
5 - 10 12° - 15° level weather heel
11 - 15 15° - 18° slight weather heel
16 - 20 pinch to 15° - 18° minimum level
21 - 26 minimum minimum level

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Scott Flinn (scottflinn@alumni.uwaterloo.ca)